My journey started in Lusaka, Zambia where I have set up a storage area to keep and prepare the items for export to Canada. I did some purchasing and catching up with old friends. A few days later I headed north to the Lubumbashi region of the Dem Rep of Congo. I stayed there several days and managed to collect some beautiful Kuba, Chokwe, Luba, Lulua, Songye, Hemba and other tribal artworks. My planned trip further into the northeastern DRC was cut short, due to the killing of UN peacekeepers by the rebels.

I then traveled into western Zambia towards the borders of Angola. I met up with Victor Kayombo a Lovale representative who we met previously and have developed a great rapport and friendship. He would accompany me on my travels in western Zambia, introducing me to village elders along the way. The only way a “muzungu” (white person) can enter the small villages of this part of the world, is by introduction by a representative of the Lovale chief Libinga.

With Victor we headed into the districts of Kaoma, Lukulu and Kalabo. We wanted to get our "Lovale Initiation - A Dying Ritual" project up and running. (Collecting, cataloguing and researching the Initiation process in this region). We concentrated on three villages headed by Mr. Ten-Ten, Mr. Benny and Mr. Makuwa. I arrived with my customary supply of sugar, salt, oil and soap. These are rare commodities out there and everyone was thankful and happy. The children were ecstatic when biscuits, shoes and clothing were handed out. 

All of the village elders were extremely helpful and informative and after discussing our project with them, they decided to unearth their buried initiation masks -stunning examples of Chikunza, Kalelwa, and Kayipu characters, and give them to become part of the project. We will be returning on our next trip to continue our acquisitions and research.

My trip took me further northwest along the Zambezi River and then west towards Angola past the Kalabo village. This was the rainy season and traveling was difficult. Roads were impassible, pontoons had to be used and boats had to be taken. The slower trip this time allowed me to venture into areas I would have missed if I had come here during the dry season. One such example was a baptism that was taking place along the shores of the Zambezi River.  It was beautiful. The harmonic singing, the smell of the bush and the brightness of the African sky transported me into a state I have never experienced - a sense extreme tranquility and oneness with all around me.

West of Kalabo I had a memorable experience of trading in the dark, under the light of the headlamps of the truck. The southern constellation was so bright, I felt I could reach up and touch the stars. I picked up some unusual Lwena, Luchazi and Chokwe pieces, among them the “Flying witchdoctor”, the “Ngulu skeletal sculpture”, the “Altar to dead child” and the “Hybrid giving birth”. It was a great experience, making new friends and getting exquisite pieces of art.

My trip was exciting, colorful and successful. I have added more images and captions of the trip on the next page. But there was also a sense of loss. People we had seen last year were no longer with us.  They had died of aids, Malaria or tuberculosis. AIDS in Zambia is an epidemic. Over 700,000 adults and children have died already. And if the current trend continues, another 1.6 million will die by the year 2014. More than 50,000 people die of malaria each year and nearly 40% of deaths of children aged five years or less are due to Malaria. If you feel you want to help, please donate to the Global fund, set up by the U.N to fight the ravages of aids, malaria and tuberculosis.

Yiannis (March 2005)