MUALI DANCE

In the northwestern part of Zambia while traveling on a dirt road we came upon a small Mbunda village (Kalamba village) with colored materials strung around it in the trees and bushes and lots of people milling around. We stopped to ask what the occasion was and we were told that a Muali dance (public dance) of a young girl initiate was in progress. We asked the chief of the village permission to stay and participate. He accepted after consulting with a few elders. I was excited as this was turning out to be a trip with once in a lifetime experiences.

Muali dance - Public coming of age dance.
The female ritual takes place during a young girl's menstruation period. The young girl is taken from her home and assigned a female teacher who will be responsible for scarification, female comportment and stretching of the outer labia.

The first day of the ritual, the girl is usually stripped naked and taken to a specific tree near the village. She lies down in a fetal position, covered with a blanket facing the tree while women sing and dance around her to protect her from outside forces. While the girl sits in front of the tree she is said to be in “the dying place” contemplating the death and passing of her childhood.  At sunset, her teacher assists her to a hut in the village where she is taught the conduct of a woman, appropriate sexual behavior and public and private dancing. The next day, the young woman is bathed, dressed and decorated for her performance of her public dance. She is now known as “Muali” or mature girl.
I walked straight into the latter phase of the young woman’s public Muali dance. A crowd of celebrating and curious villagers encircled two dancing girls. One was very much younger and I asked if she had also had her menstruation. I was told that this was not the case, and that it is customary for a little girl to accompany the initiate so she is not alone. The young girl chosen for this function is known as “kashambeo”

"Kashambeo" accompanying Muali girl in her dance.
The signing and rhythm was infectious. The Katsasu “millet beer” was adding to the euphoria. The sun was at its zenith, the dust was rising and the drums were pounding. The Muali girl and her companion were swirling and dancing non-stop. They would not speak to anyone. Only when gifts in the form of chickens and money were given to her would she acknowledge the person giving the gifts. After giving money to the Muali girl I was invited to play the drums. Here I was beating my soul out in the middle of the African summer, getting lost in the swirling, chanting, singing, rhythmic crowd.

Getting into the rhythm. What a trip!

Offering food to the Muali dancer.
That night after the dance the meals were prepared, consisting of poultry and Shima – made out of ground and boiled Kashava roots. The food was served in flat baskets made out of Mukenge roots. Katsasu beer, made out of sugar and millet over 7 days, was served in great quantities. A true feast and celebration to remember!

Driving away into the African night, reflecting on my nieces passage into womanhood back in Canada, and how private, fearful and hidden the transformation was, I marveled at the way a whole village and family can celebrate and welcome such a change.

I have tried to keep the Mbunda language and names as true as possible. If any mistakes were made, please forgive me and blame it on the Katsasu beer.
For more detailed information of female initiation amongst the Chokwe and related peoples one should read “Chokwe! Art and initiation among Chokwe and related peoples” by Manuel Jordán and Marie-Louise Bastin.

Yiannis, September 2005.